About the author
I'm a writer attempting the impossible: capturing the ever-elusive stoke. This endeavor has taken me around the world—from China to Central America, Africa, and beyond-helping me see a more realistic picture of our globalized planet. It has also forced me to investigate the smallest details, like how foot flexibility solves a problematic bottom turn.
In my pursuit of stoke, I've optimized my life around surfing. The stories, reports, and reflections here explore my lessons learned in the lineup and how they translate to a life well-lived.