Sugar On My Tongue

Surfing is like sugar. It comes in many forms and, at least for me, has a predictable affect on the brain. When sugar hits my tongue I get an immediate reward shortly followed by a strong craving for more.

I can't remember a single surf session where I've caught a good wave at the beginning of the session and then thought to myself, "Okay that was great. I'm gonna go in."

Does anyone eat just one M&M?

On the other hand, sometimes when I haven't surfed for a few days, I don't feel that big of an urge to surf; Especially when I know the conditions are bad or I'm somewhere with no waves.

But as soon as I know there's an opportunity for surf I start craving it. And once I catch one wave, I want more.

While sugar can make me sick, giving me some sort of sugar hangover - and also often a moral one - surfing never has that effect. What pulls me out of the water is having to be somewhere else, the sun setting, a tide or wind change that ruins the conditions, or... my favorite... simply being too tired to catch more waves.