Introduction: What To Expect When Reading A Surfer's Notebook

Hi, my name is Dave and like many surfers I've optimized my life around catching great waves.

The last few years I've been on a surf safari, traveling the world surfing remote waves, living what most surfers would consider to be 'the dream life'.

From famous right hand points in South Africa to unknown left handers in China, I've collected a colorful spectrum of surf experiences. But I'm not here to brag about the waves I've caught or try to sell you a dream.

My chase for more and better waves has inadvertently exposed me to many other interesting, wild, and weird experiences. Some of which I'll share with you here. But my notes go well beyond surf travel.

From my notebook, I'll be sharing wide-ranging stories, thoughts, and technical analysis of things that probably shouldn't be analyzed.

How is surfing like sugar?
What are the social dynamics of a lineup?
What makes this Moroccan wave so magical?
How can old man river surf that good?!
What is foot flexibility? And how did it transform my surfing?
Why am I never going back to Sri Lanka?

These are the types of questions I ask myself. I hope this gives you a bit of an idea of what's to come...

But here are a few quick notes to help set your expectations of what you're getting into here:

I'm just a regular dude - I'm not sponsored and I don't follow the professional surf tour, so you won't be hearing much about that vein of surf culture.
There's no rigid format for these notes - these are all my personal accounts and most are relatively short. They are about surfing in some way, shape, or form... and those are really my only guidelines.
I'm sharing my notes for your entertainment, but I suspect a few may strike a deeper chord or make you think a bit differently about your relationship with surfing. As you can probably tell thus far, I do like to joke a bit, but as anyone who has been caught inside during the set of the day knows... the surfing life is not all fun and games... and my notes certainly will reflect that.
Schedule - new writings are released once a week, but there may be some occasional bonus content in between.

As I'm sure you're already well aware, if you want to get notified when new episodes are released, you'll need to find some way to subscribe.

For questions, feedback, or invitations to all expense paid mentawai boat trips... head over to surfers notebook . com

I hope you're getting waves, wherever you are, and enjoy these writings from a surfer's notebook.

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